GIVE YOUR ISUZU
GIVE YOUR ISUZU
TROOPER 2.8/3.1
A SUPER SERVICE
For advice on looking after a Trooper, Andrew Pearce turns
to Sussex-based main dealers E O Culverwell
WHETHER standing on two legs or four wheels, troopers have a reputation for toughness. But both sorts can be laid low if not given the right fluids at regular intervals – beer for one, oils and such for the other. Nothing keeps going without service.
So it is for Isuzus version. The factory suggests oil/filter changes every 4500 miles on later 3.1 models, then more substantial services every 9000 miles or 12 months. The biggest event of all falls due every 27,000 miles or three years, involving the usual stuff plus swaps of all oils. Earlier 2.8 diesels work on 6000-mile intervals.
These schedules are based on normal use, whatever that may be. If your Trooper does a lot of heavy towing or works all summer in dust, then look to the brakes, air cleaner and oil changes more often. Note that Isuzu recommends changing brake fluid every year or 9000 miles, and that a dealer can test for water contamination to confirm fluid condition. Also, the factory suggests a coolant change every 18,000 miles/two years. Antifreeze concentration should be not less than 30% summer and winter.
Isuzu has pretty much packed the engine bay, and on the 3.1 engine featured here has blanketed the motor with an intercooler – the earlier 2.8 model does without one.
Dont be put off; the under-bonnet may look like a plumbers nightmare but most items are fairly easy to get at. So round up whats needed (see box) and follow service technician Martin Wright through an 18,000-mile service. Although he has the benefit of a ramp, everything can be done on the workshop floor with only a little pain.
Troopers are tough machines but still need regular, comprehensive servicing.
1. Start with a warm engine and change the oil. First whip off the sump guard, thus releasing half a years worth of general mud and grot over the floor. Drain the old stuff, but dont refill yet if youre planning to do the tappets. (Memory like a sieve? Leave a "no oil" reminder on the drivers seat). The filter is best reached from below. Dirty oil will cascade over the suspension and diff unless you channel it away – cut a 300mm (12in) disc from an old plastic can, bend it into a U-shaped chute and wedge it under the filter.
2. Check oil levels in the front axle, gearbox, transfer case and rear axle. Each has a level/filler plug – the gearbox version is up on the offside, the transfer boxs one is at the back, as pictured left.
3. Grease the propshaft. Helpfully the UJ nipples are on the spider ends, not lurking in the yoke. While youre underneath, scan everything in sight for condition or leaks. Wriggle forward to check the front driveshaft boots for rips and holes; big expense follows should dirt get into a joint. Also see that the hollow bump stop rubbers between body and axle (rear) or body and suspension arm (front) are present and correct, as they can depart.
4. Emerge into the light and start on the engine. Tappet check interval isnt specified, but do the job at least annually – poor adjustment puts emissions and noise up, power and economy down. Reaching the rocker box means taking off the intercooler (covering the motor – see heading picture) and the steel exhaust gas recirculation pipe bridging the cover at the bulkhead end. The former comes off as a unit, with Martin Wright suggesting that the smaller vacuum hoses are tagged so they go back in the proper place. With the rocker cover off and the motor cool, turn the crank manually or on the starter until cylinders 1 and 4 are at top dead centre (tdc). Confirm by twiddling no 1s pushrods (which must be free) and squinting to see that the crankshaft pulleys mark is lined up with the cambelt pointer. Set tappets on both cylinders to 0.4mm (0.016in). Repeat with nos 2 and 3 at tdc, then rotate the engine two full turns and recheck. Re-instate the cover, recirculation pipe and intercooler, then refill the motor with oil.
5. Clutch operation is hydraulic and the unit is self-adjusting. Fluid still needs to be checked, though. The reservoir is tucked up alongside the intercooler on the bulkheads offside, and is tricky to fill. If possible, check it when the intercooler is off.
7. …use a screwdriver to budge the fuel filter loose. Then undo the filter head bracket bolts, swing the unit clear and take the old filter off.
8. The fuel filter holds a combined water drain and sensor. Transfer this to the new element before fitting, then work the filter heads lift pump button until its hard work to push. With the filter now full of diesel, the injection pump should clear remaining air when the engine fires up.
6. The air cleaner element is simple to change. But before the airbox cover goes back on…
9. Inspect all four corners for brake pad condition – its quite normal for the pad next to the piston to wear faster than its partner. Replacement is quick and easy. A single bolt holds each caliper; take it out and the unit swings up to release the pads. Wash down the bracketry with brake cleaner, then push the piston back with a clamp. Reservoir fluid level may overflow if left, so soak some out on a clean paper towel before it gets too high. (Cautions: Possible asbestos dust and organic vapour hazards. Brake fluid strips vehicle paintwork if left in contact).
WHATS NEEDED
Data for 3.1 diesel is given first, 2.8 model follows in brackets.
• Engine oil. Where climate varies between -15C and +30C, refill with 6.5 litres of good-quality 15W-40 oil to API classification CD or CE. In really cold climes switch to 5W-30 grade. (2.8 Trooper takes 5 litres SAE 30 oil, API CD).
• Oil filter. Genuine items are recommended, pattern parts are available. For warranty cover genuine items must be used.
• Gearbox and transfer case oils. The gearbox takes 2.95 litres of quality-brand 15W-40 engine oil, the transfer case 1.45 litres of the same. (2.8 Trooper uses 4.6 litres of SAE 30 5W-30 engine oil).
• Brake/clutch fluid. To DOT4 Universal specification, as required.
• Axle oils. Use 1.5 litres SAE80-80 gear oil in the front axle, 1.8 litres of limited slip differential oil in the rear. (2.8 Trooper 1.0 litre SAE 90 or 80W/90 up front, 1.5 litres lsd oil at rear).
• Air filter and fuel filter. Genuine or pattern parts according to whim or warranty.
• Cambelt. As required, genuine preferred.
Agricultural dealers E O Culverwell (01580-880567) hold Isuzu and Subaru parts, carry a stock of new and used vehicles and offer mail order service.
DATA
• Valve clearances: Set with engine cool or cold. Set both inlet and exhaust to 0.4mm (0.016in) for the 3.1 diesel. For the 2.8 engine, use 0.15mm (0.006in) for inlet valves, 0.25mm (0.010in) for exhausts.
• Cylinder numbering: No 1 closest to radiator.
10. Each pad has a shim and backing plate which fit as shown above. Clip pad springs into the caliper bracket, slide the new pads home.
11. A layer of copper-based grease on the backing plates keeps squeal at bay. Flip down the caliper and tighten the holding bolt to 54lbf ft (front callipers) or 32lbf ft (rears). The handbrake works through drums built into the rear discs. If lever travel is too long – more than four or five clicks – take up adjustment evenly on both drums, using a screwdriver through the slot in each brakes backplate. (2.8 Troopers adjust by Allen key.)
12. Although not part of routine DIY servicing, ignore the cambelt at your peril. In the Trooper it drives the injection pump as well as the valve gear, and should the belt break the crisis will be dire. A dash warning light comes on at 60,000 miles/five years to show a new belt is due. After replacement (best left to a dealer) the warning light must be reset.