Goose back on menu for Michaelmas

Goose producers are seeing the once-neglected feast of Michaelmas making a comeback.

Demand for goose from restaurants is increasing each year as more people warm to the idea of an autumn feast.

Traditionally Michaelmas Day falls on 29 September, except in Suffolk and Norfolk where it is celebrated on 4 October and 11 October respectively.

Michaelmas was considered until the 18th century the first day of the new farming year and tenants would present their landlord with a goose to pay the rent on their land.

Judy Goodman, chairman of British Goose Producers, rears about 200 geese for Michaelmas at Great Witley, near Worcester, and has seen a steady build-up in demand at this time of the year.

“Traditionally the Michaelmas geese would have grazed on the stubble fields after harvest,” Mrs Goodman said.

“We rear them on grass and wheat today, and achieve the leaner type of geese, without their winter coats, that are so delicious at this time of the year.”

Annie Clift at the Talbot country inn at Knightwick, in the Teme Valley, responded to demand for Michaelmas goose two years ago put adding it to the menu for a week rather than a day.

“We run our menu like a 19th-century farmhouse kitchen,” Mrs Clift said.

“That means taking full advantage of food that’s in season and we’ll probably be serving 100-150 goose dishes during our Michaelmas week.”

The Brace of Pheasants pub at Plush in Dorset serves goose at Michaelmas from local producer Michael Colman. He also supplies the Goring Hotel at Grosvenor Gardens in London, which serves goose every day during Michaelmas week.